Mahamuni Pagoda, Mahagandayon Monastery, Inwa Ancient City, Mandalay Hill – Mandalay, Myanmar

Mon Nov. 3, 2025  

This morning, we were awakened by dogs barking at 3:45. One started and then the whole neighborhood’s dogs started to howl. “Everybody sing!” I actually laughed out loud. We needed to be up at 4 o' clock to watch the "Face-Washing Ceremony" at Mahamuni Pagoda anyway. At least that was the plan. We got there and all the gates were locked. Myint Swe made some calls and was told that there wouldn’t be one today as it was closed to the public.

So, we are up with no place to go, and he takes us for tea to wait for the Pagoda to open. We actually enjoyed the experience as the café was getting ready for the day and there were a few other early birds out and about. He ordered tea/coffee and freshly fried samosas which were very tasty. We watched this young man making fried long bread called E Kya Kway. It was fascinating to watch him as he made them with such ease. Myint Swe bought some and they were very tasty.

Here is what the Face Washing Ceremony description: Every morning before the sun even rises, local believers will offer fresh towels, food and other items brought from their homes to the deity. The presiding monk will firstly wash the face of the Buddha image, followed by one sequence of brushing its teeth and apply some sandalwood paste on the Buddha's face before cleaning again with scented water. The devotee who brings the towel gets to take it back to his own home shrine after the ritual is over.

cafe 

samosas

fried dough - yum!

We walked to the Pagoda and waited for the gate to open.

says open 24 hours - but it sure looks closed

the entry gate

We went to see the Buddha image and there are 2 sections. Women sit outside and men are allowed inside in front of it. People were praying and leaving gifts to the deity.

shown on a screen

the men's section

behind them is the woman's section

hard to see the deity

they were getting ready for a weaving ceremony

We left and there were many nuns passing by and some cute puppies playing in the street. We then went back to hotel for breakfast and a shower.

driving back to the hotel

the restaurant at the hotel 

We stopped at a woodworking shop and watched them chisel some beautiful pieces. We toured their shop, and I imagine that is where the puppets the guide gave us came from.

large door they were carving

there were a few cats and dogs in the shop

On the way to Amarapura, we came across 2 men in an elephant suit trying to make some money and we stopped to watch.

We stopped at Mahagandayon Monastery, a monastic college where thousands of monks were waiting in line for their lunch. I don’t remember who sponsored today’s lunch (rice), but usually someone or a company sponsors the meal. This is a more prosperous monastery, so the monks don’t usually have to collect alms from people. We participated in giving alms (rice) when we were in Laos and as they passed, we put rice in their vessels. It was the highlight of the trip to Laos. This one was also special to see.

On the drive to Inwa we stopped at the only place to eat on the road. It wasn’t great, but I enjoyed the morning glory. He ordered pork, beef, morning glory, radish soup, corn & sautéed veggies.

on the drive we passed quite a few vehicles taking gifts to the monasteries

on the back of a truck

lots of music, singing and dancing

out the front window of the van

this guy came running to protect us from the elements when we got out of the van

pork, beef morning glory, radish soup, corn & sautéed veggies

bathroom sign

We continued to Inwa Ancient City, which was the imperial city of Burma from the 14th to 19th centuries. We did the tour in a horse cart and saw many Royal remains and religious sites, including Ava Palace, Maha Aungmye Bonzan Monastery and Yadana Hsimi Pagodas.

Khae Thin Pagoda Complex - we stopped here to see the remains (earthquake damage over the years)

where we rented the horse carts for the tour

Tom & Cathy in their cart

looking forward in our cart

Tom & Cathy

Bagaya Monastery - we were supposed to visit, but it was closed

Hsin Gyone Fort

 

Yadana-Semi Pagoda Complex

We returned to Mandalay for sunset at Mandalay Hill. We took an elevator up to the top and besides the beautiful temples there were incredible views of the city. Su Taung Pyae Pagoda is beautiful, and we walked all the way around it to see the various temples. It had been pouring rain but stopped it was like an ice-skating rink in our bare feet on the tile so we shuffled everywhere. There are four covered stairways called saungdan, leading up the hill from various directions. Luckily, a one-way road saves time or for those who don’t wish to climb up the stairs. We took an escalator and an elevator to the pagoda at the summit.

I forgot to mention that last night at dinner we met 2 American women that were teaching in Mandalay. They were interesting and full of opinions. They were telling about going to lunch at the Mandalay Hotel (where we were supposed to stay but were changed due to “noise”) and they said there was a huge conference with Russian and Cambodian dignitaries. They said there was tons of security and with all the weapons it was kind of scary. I imagine that was the real reason we couldn’t stay there. (probably the best hotel in the city)

What made me think of it was they told us the elevator at Mandalay Hill hadn’t been working and we would have to take the stairs, but we did take an elevator.

views from the top

After dinner we packed up for the drive to Bagan tomorrow. (at least a 5-hour drive)

While we had a less than stellar stay here with the room changes and the over-charging at the restaurant, the hotel staff were sweet and very willing to please.

Mandalay Day 2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/tocBjmkoVucDb7Xh6