Wednesday, October 7, 2026

Kwara Camp - Okavango Delta - Botswana

Sep 10 

Last night we fell asleep to the sounds of the frogs croaking and the bellowing and grunting of the hippos. (better than any sound machine) 

We woke up to no running water this morning. We don’t know if it’s just us or the whole camp. We got ready and left for breakfast. Turns out it’s the whole camp that is out. We were told it would be fixed when we got back from the morning game drive. The running water is just for flushing toilets and showers as brushing teeth, and all the cooking was done with purified water. 

Eating breakfast while balancing plates on our laps by the firepit wasn’t easy so we moved to the dining area with tables and chairs. 

On the game drive we almost missed seeing the Marsh Mongoose as KB kept saying it was on the right when it was on the left. (then he’d say right and back and forth) We did finally see it. 

There were quite a few Vervet Monkeys in the trees, (all far away) a female Cheetah and the water attracted lots of birds and Red Lechwe. One of the highlights was the Owlet we came across. The biggest highlight was a pride of Lions with a young giraffe kill. (Lioness with a young male and three female young) We could see a Giraffe family nearby and they appeared to be mourning one of their young. The “circle of life” can be hard to witness. 

We watched them for a long time and then went to a safe place for our morning break with snacks and drinks. We went back afterwards to see their progress. You can see the very full bellies, and they are lounging around like house cats. You can also see the pink tinge in their fur from feeding on the giraffe. 

sunrise







driving through water to get to the bridge
the bridge

Impala




hippos

Burchell's Starling
Marsh Mongoose
Marsh Mongoose on the left of the Impala

Tsessebe







Impala
Vervet Monkey






giraffe in poor lighting (into the sun)



they really blend into the trees

I'm hiding and you can't see me...
you can see it's not easy to see the Cheetah

















time to look for another spot
found a shady spot








Yellow-billed Stork - Great Egret

Pearl-spotted Owlet

Red Lechwe






Red Lechwe








young giraffe














White-headed Vulture








White-headed Vulture
Greg taking photos of the lions under the tree - we were changing position of the jeep
full bellies & lounging like house cats





White-headed Vulture







morning break - TS & KB
TS

Tawny Eagles
Tawny Eagle
















On the drive back to the camp some Baboons and Vervet Monkeys were sounding alarms, and TS knew there was a predator close by. We don’t know how he saw it, but there was a male leopard hiding in the bushes that was very hard to see. It really was just a blob of spots. Again, KB had a hard time positioning us to see it without craning our necks. We finally got him to back up and he was much easier to see.

The rest of the drive back to the camp yielded a lot of birds. These guides weren’t in a hurry to get back for “brunch” compared to the last camp where we were back around 11:00 each morning. We were back by noon. With the morning snack break and a hardier lunch (besides made-to-order omelets) it worked very well. 

White-faced Whistling Ducks




African Sacred Ibis
Red Lechwe

Black-winged Stilt
African Sacred Ibis

Baboons




the leopard was buried in the bushes

it helped when KB backed up the jeep




Tsessebe


driving through water to get back to camp



Yellow-billed Stork
Yellow-billed Stork & Great Egret

Great Egrets
Black Heron

Hamerkops

almost the airstrip
a plane had just landed


anti-poaching ranger camp

There still was no running water, and we found out that Big Kwara had broken a water pipe. 

After lunch we took some photos of the camp and checked out the pool (there is one for each side of the camp). There also was a small area to get drinks. (beer and wine) The pool didn’t look that inviting, but perhaps we should have taken a dip to clean off. The manager came by and told us that there still wasn't any water, and he would be back in 15 minutes with an update. No update ever came and we left to go to the afternoon tea. There they told us they hoped to have it fixed by that evening. So, no shower today. I guess we should have asked but it would have been nice if they offered to bring some hot water to the tent to wash up during the mid-day break.

the bar area




art (tooled metal)
firepit
part of the common areas
another common area
where the tea was served

where we were greeted with the aperitif of the day after game drives
walkway between the tents and the main camp
this kind of path the rest of the way to the tents
swimming pool on our side
pool area



Long-toed Lapwing

Red-eyed Dove
Common Bulbul
Black-backed Puffback

After the teatime with really good food, we took off for the afternoon for a game drive and the sunset boat trip. The boat trip was nice, but it was right into the sun. (the morning ones probably were better for avoiding that) 

The guide continued to be “annoying”. At one point he said "hippo" and we asked where and the answer was "outside". 

He pulled into an alcove and asked me “can you tell me what plant this is? We were surrounded by many different plants and I asked “which plant?”. He answered, “come on Annette, you know which one” Yikes! None of us are mind readers. 

Red Lechwe
Malachite Kingfisher



the boats for the sunset cruise


African Darter




Pied Kingfisher

Nile or Rock Monitor











hippo was high above us and the tall grass was obscuring it

others from camp - maybe Splash Camp

African Jacana

He seemed to want us to go upstairs but it was so sunny we resisted until he finally insisted. His plan was to serve the sundowner snacks there as we parked at the Godikwe Rookery. (the rookery was the highlight of the boat trip) We watched Marabou Storks feed their young in the nest, Yello-billed Storks on their nest and on one we could see an egg. They were fun to watch the interaction and all the action in the rookery. 

Godikwe Rookery
pulling the boat up close to the Godikwe Rookery
Great Egret & Sacred Ibis
Marabou Stork & Yellow-billed Storks




















there were 3 chicks in the nest
sitting on a nest
she has an egg in the nest

Little Egret - breeding plumage




























feeding the chick
2 chicks getting fed













It was time to return, and we had to go back downstairs. We had to wait until TS took all the food and drinks back downstairs before we could get up from our seats to go down. He yelled up at us that we had to come down. Sheesh, if you aren’t going to help, at least give TS time to clean up. It was a beautiful sunset. 


















The managers explained that the water still wasn’t fixed. Everything they tried blew out the pipes again. They said they would deliver extra clean water to the tents later. No plan for having heated water to maybe at least wash up. Back at the tent we said we should have grabbed one of the hot water containers they put out for the coffee drinkers to take back to their tents.

back at the camp
everyone gathered around the firepit before dinner

Tomorrow, we will game drive until it's time for the mokoro experience and finish with game drives morning and afternoon. We went to bed hoping the water would be fixed. Really feeling the need to shower and wash my hair....

Photos & videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jxe9Qs9coN1KAsaK7


Kwara Camp - Okavango Delta - Botswana

Sep 10   Last night we fell asleep to the sounds of the frogs croaking and the bellowing and grunting of the hippos. (better than any soun...