September 4
Those that know me understand I’m not always a “morning person”. We had packed up the night before since we needed to have breakfast and check out so MJ could drive us to the border of Botswana. I woke to a phone call from South Africa. I said “Hello”, but no one answered. Then the phone rang again and it was a WhatsApp call from the owner of the safari company. I’m still in a fog as I haven’t really woken up yet. He was trying to tell me something I could tell was very difficult and was going into a long backstory (I’m thinking spit it out already I need to shower and go) and long story short the company was in financial trouble and the next camp and the last camp had agreed to honor our reservations since they would be named in the settlement after the sale of his home. (my mind was now all over the place ranging from do we no longer have a safari to start or only the 6 days in the middle weren’t covered?) He explained that the two Kwara camps would only honor our reservations if we paid them in full today (at rack rate). I asked him to email me the details. Of course, decision to stay and pay again for the lodging or fly home after only doing Victoria Falls & Chobe National Park had to be made.
I’m trying to relate the details to Greg, and we were trying to figure out how to work it all out. (and tell Tom & Cathy the news) We showered and got packed up for them to pick up the bags. We went to breakfast and it took them eons to take our order. (I had to flag someone down) We were both on our phones reading the new emails on the fiasco and now dealing directly with the management of the middle two camps. They wanted payment today and the forms needed to be signed by us. I explained to her that we were leaving the Falls area and would have little to no internet but would try our best to work it out. We got our food and ate and checked out and met MJ in front of the hotel. In the van I told Tom & Cathy that we had something serious to talk about. MJ seemed to understand that we needed a private conversation and waited outside of the van.
Then, there was an issue that we had not been told about the night before that at the border we would have to have all shoes other than those on our feet so they could be cleaned for foot and mouth going from Zimbabwe and Botswana. If we had known about that the night before we wouldn’t have packed them in the bottom of our duffels. MJ said it wasn’t a big deal, but it was a hassle digging out the shoes (water shoes or any other footwear) in a bag that is packed carefully to fit in everything. MJ was great as a guide, and we only had two minor issues (late lunch right before the boat cruise serving tons of food and this shoe thing). Probably less of a big deal if we weren’t dealing with taking care of payment for the 6 nights lodges & flights between them in the middle of the trip. (Kwando and Okavango Delta which were to be the highlights)
On the drive Greg and Cathy were trying to get the forms filled out and signed on their phones. Anyone who has done a safari knows that it’s about the most expensive per diem of any location on the planet and Botswana is higher than other locations as they try to limit tourism’s impact on the environment. So, the 6 nights needed to be split into 2 different cards for each couple. Internet coverage stopped and we knew there was nothing more we could do until we got to the next lodge that had Wi-Fi.
So, instead of enjoying the drive and listening to MJ tell us about Botswana we were on the phone trying to work out this issue. On the drive we had to stop for some elephants that were crossing the road, and we saw some warthogs near the border.
I had signed my name on the wrong line, and she pulled me out of line to redo the entire form. When finished she directed me back to the original line I was in. The immigration officer asked where we were staying in Botswana and after the morning I had had so far, I needed a moment to think of the name of the safari camp. She screamed at me “I need to know where you are staying”, and I said I need a moment to think. She didn’t care, she just kept asking “where are you staying?”. Normally not a big deal but after a morning of WTF surprises she was standing on my last nerve. I finally came up with Ngoma and that satisfied her. There was another agent there and she was being nice to everyone.
We arrived at the Kesane airport where we were to meet our driver from Ngoma and MJ would go back to Zimbabwe. MJ talked to a driver, and he thought we were his people, so we got in his jeep. (it didn’t have the Ngoma name on it, so I was curious if we were in the wrong vehicle) It was determined that we weren’t his clients and we got out and our bags removed. MJ couldn’t find our driver and made some phone calls. He took us inside the airport where we could sit and wait for the driver. (more working on trying to get the 6 nights covered at the next 2 lodges) If we couldn’t get the form “signed” online and emailed to the manager we figured the next camp could print it and scan it so we could attach it to an email. Greg and Cathy figured out how to sign and scan on their phones and got the forms to the manager. Phew! I’m sure the safari company had a better rate for the 6 nights and not sure why we were being punished by paying rack rate, other than to punish the safari owner for their inconvenience. Neither here nor there as long as we get paid back. I believe the safari company will make it all good after the sale of his home. I wish them the best as they are a wonderful small local company and has previously provided us with great service.
Our driver Phill came, and we said our goodbyes to MJ. We enjoyed our time with him touring the Falls, the Sunset River cruise & the Eatery (services provided by Pure Africa, whom I highly recommend) and the Ilala Lodge was lovely and other than the small breakfast issues and oddly, they provided a hairdryer with a plug that didn’t go into any of their outlets. There was a tea kettle that once unplugged and you crawled on the floor to get to the outlet it worked in there.
We saw a few zebras on the drive to the lodge. Upon arrival at Ngoma Safari Lodge (45 minutes from Kesane Airport) the entire staff greeted us, and we were given wet towels and an arrival drink. We were taken to fill out the arrival paperwork. After the formalities it was time for lunch. It was a lovely setting with panoramic views of the Chobe River and the floodplains. (dry this time of year) Ngoma Safari Lodge | Botswana - Chobe National Park | Machaba Safaris
Seating here for meals was with your group, or you could choose a table for two. The chef told us about the choices and we ordered. All meals were ordered from a menu and was over the top food and service. It was an open bar, and snacks were available at all times. (as well as snacks in the rooms)
Lined up along the ridge, Ngoma Safari Lodge's eight river facing thatched chalets are connected to the main area by gravel pathways. Each chalet has spacious interior and exterior living areas, ensuite bathroom, an inside and outside shower, mini-bar, air-conditioning and tea/coffee making facilities. Each one has its own patio, with a table, deckchairs and a private plunge pool. It is one of a handful of lodges in this north-eastern corner of the Chobe Forest Reserve, close to the quieter, western end of the Chobe Riverfront, which is the focus of most of its game-viewing activities. Basically, it sits right near the border with Namibia.
For lunch Greg and I got the Lamb Kofta which was quite good. Next, we were taken to our chalets, and we had a bit of free time before heading out on an afternoon game drive. Meyezi was our guide for our 2 nights here. (3 nights would have been ideal) In the daytime you could come and go as you pleased but at night you had to be escorted from the main area to your chalet.
We entered the Chobe National Park and had a short game drive. We saw many Cape buffalo, elephants, giraffes, more Guinea fowl than you could count and other birds.
Greg's old camera died and they don't make it anymore, so he got a new one and we aren't as thrilled with the quality of photos it takes compared to the one that died. I only use my cell phone now and prefer that, even though it doesn't have the powerful zoom as Gregs'. His old camera was great for birds, but this one just doesn't shoot as crisp or bright, especially with birds. (giving credit for the things you can't control like the lighting on the day or how far away the subject is)
For dinner we started with carpaccio followed by a sorbet to clean our pallets and for the main we ordered the boneless chicken thigh with a pea puree, mini corn & green beans and for dessert a trio of interesting ice creams. I don’t remember all the flavors, but there was cardamom, ginger and many interesting combinations of flavors. It’s always fun to try different things even if you’d never order them again. (or have the opportunity to)
Tomorrow, we have a full day with a
game drive, lunch and a game boat ride.
Photo & Video Album https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fi3vndRJ5Vh7rBCC9
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