Tuesday, August 19, 2025

Warsaw City Tour & Polin Museum of Polish History - Warsaw, Poland

Monday July 21 

After the meager breakfast at the hotel, we met our guide Kris for our half-day tour of Warsaw. We started with a walking tour that was to take us to the Old Town with the Royal Castle, the Royal Route and Lazienki” – the Royal Park & Palace, the area of the former Jewish ghetto, the Saski Garden and the “modern face” of Warsaw. We were to have the afternoon free to explore on our own and we had planned to visit the Warsaw Uprising Museum.

In the lobby he asked if we were Polish or Jewish and when the answers were no, he seemed mystified about why we would visit.

Kris was a nice guy, but a PHD has no business doing tours. Most guides have an “in a nutshell” kind of style and if you have questions you can ask. Kris was non-stop history & dates for 7 hours, which was more than we could handle. We prefer to see things, take photos and get the "general idea of a place". We even mentioned that a little bit of history goes a long way, but the “guiding style” didn't change. Standing and hearing a lecture for 15 minutes or more and then rushing by the thing you came to see isn't a great experience for us. (we did just stop and take photos) Kris was also a “close talker” and he had to be right on top of you and looking you in the eyes.  We even tried just walking away while the lectures were happening, but Kris followed us to make sure we didn't miss anything he said. By the time we got to the Old Town I felt we rushed through there after spending over an hour not a block from our hotel before moving on. OK, I looked at the times of the photos and what seemed like an hour was only 15 or 20 minutes. Still too long to stand in one place and listen to a lecture. If we wanted the history of Poland since the dawn of time we could have taken a college class or just looked it up on the internet. We’d prefer actually going into a building and seeing it rather than spending the time outside being told about it.

mural at the start of our walk - Kris didn't point it out, but I found it interesting (note the child holding a gun)
we stood at this spot for 15 minutes comparing the building styles

yep, a palm tree in Warsaw

Joanna Rajkowska is a Polish contemporary artist who came onto the Polish art scene in the 1990s. Her most famous work is called "Greetings from Jerusalem Avenue", a 49-foot artificial palm tree installed on Warsaw's Jerusalem Avenue. It wasn’t removed after the exhibit and instead become under the protection of the President of Warsaw. We stood at this intersection for 15 minutes listening to him comparing the building styles.

We finally moved on towards Nowy Swiat - main historic street on the Royal Route.






gelato shop - maybe later?



We spent quite a bit of time at Staszic Palace, the seat of the Polish Academy of Sciences with the statue of Copernicus. Nicolaus Copernicus was a Polish astronomer and mathematician who proposed the heliocentric theory of the solar system, making him known as the "father of modern astronomy". His theory placed the sun at the center of the universe, with the Earth and other planets revolving around it, a revolutionary idea that challenged the long-held geocentric model. 

Staszic Palace, the seat of the Polish Academy of Sciences with the statue of Copernicus - part of it was under renovation




there were many planets that were incorporated into the brick plaza

We visited the Church of the Holy Cross which was an interesting visit. Frédéric Chopin's heart is still preserved. It was removed during an autopsy after his death in Paris and taken to Warsaw, where it is now encased in a jar filled with alcohol and placed inside a pillar in the Holy Cross Church. The heart was examined in 2014 to determine his cause of death, which was believed to be complications from tuberculosis.


Church of the Holy Cross




Latin for Lift your hearts up





Heart of Chopin buried in the pillar






barbed wire symbolizes the concentration camps








We continued on to Saxon Garden where the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier has a changing of the guard every hour. It was a lovely park, and we had to push Kris to keep walking to see the fountain. If it wasn’t history oriented, he wasn’t interested in showing it to us. (doesn’t everything have history?)

Chopin family apartment (one room on the second floor)
one of the best known streets of Warsaw




University of Warsaw Museum
Visitationist Church, also known as the Church of Saint Joseph



Hotel - Raffles Europejski Warsaw


Hotel Bristol


Saxon Garden

















wall art

Our walk took us past the Presidential Palace and closer to the Old Town. It was almost 1:00 and we were hungry and dying of thirst. At no time did he ever consider that we may want a restroom break or refreshment. We asked if we could stop and grab something “quick” (since our tour was to be over and we hadn’t seen half of what was planned). We stopped at the first place we came to and got sandwiches. We chose a table, and I went inside to use the restroom and when I came out our table had changed, and Kris was sitting with us. We were hoping for a break from his talking. I thought maybe he would talk a bit like a person and not a lecturer at lunch, but it didn’t really change. He did tell me that his PHD was in some minute thing with linguists. (studying the nuances of various languages) He said his thesis may have been of interest to about 12 people. He has taught some classes but says it’s not rewarding. 

Presidential Palace





the Church of the Carmelites - 1730




Cafe Nero - lunch stop

Refreshed & fueled we were on our way to the Old Town. On the way we saw where Marie Curie did some of her early research.


finally, we could see Old Town in the distance

Where Marie Curie did some of her early scientific research

the story of the 5 Nobel Peace Prizes for the Curie family


St. Anne's Church





part of the old wall


Warsaw National Stadium

St John's Archcathedral is the mother church of the Archdiocese of Warsaw and one of Poland's national pantheons. Along with the old city, the church has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

St John's Archcathedral

























Church of Jesuits
showing the Old Town after being bombed - we stood here for 15 minutes while he showed us this photo on a sign and the same photo in his notebook
what it looks like now









Warsaw Barbicon (semi-circular fortified outpost)







Field Cathedral of the Polish Army

After walking through the Old Town, we took a taxi to the Warsaw Uprising Memorial. We’re thinking that since the Uprising Museum is there that this finally the end of the tour, but he said it was closed, and the museum stop was later.

Warsaw Uprising Memorial



Polish Uprising Museum

We then took another taxi to Myślewice Palace – Royal Baths Park which is part of Łazienki Park and the Palace on the Isle. (same park where the Chopin concert is held)

Myślewice Palace - Royal Baths Park
insets in the front by the door





looking back at it

walking through the park
Łazienki Park (Royal Baths Park) and the Palace on the Isle

gondola rides on the lake






Next, we grabbed a taxi to Umschlagplatz of the Warsaw Ghetto.  Umschlagplatz (German for a collection point or reloading point) was the term used during The Holocaust to denote the holding areas adjacent to railway stations in occupied Poland where Jews from ghettos were assembled for deportation to Nazi death camps. In 1988, a memorial was erected in Warsaw to commemorate the deportation victims from the Umschlagplatz. The monument resembles a freight car with its doors open.


Umschlagplatz 








We continued the walk through the ghetto past the 16 stones on the Pathway to Remembrance and encountering a Jewish Group meeting in the park. They said Shalom as we walked by. We stopped at a small grassy hill that is the monument and commemorative stone dedicated to those who perished in the bunker on Ulica Miła during the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.



one of 16 stones on the Pathway to Remembrance
we came across a Jewish group meeting in the park

The monument and commemorative stone dedicated to those who perished in the bunker on Ulica Miła during the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising

The brokenness of the stones symbolizes the shattered lives of the Jewish community in Warsaw and beyond

We took a taxi to Monument to the Ghetto Heroes that is in front of the Polin Museum of Polish History. We were hopeful that we could say goodbye to Kris here. But first, he had to tell us all about the statue and then led us to the museum, and I think he wanted to come in and take us through it. After the long goodbye (it was now 3:30) we managed to go inside, and I took a Tylenol and we got cold drinks and some dessert to shake off the mind-numbing day with Kris. Phew!

Monument of the Ghetto Heros


the backside of the monument - unfortunately into the sun



Polin Museum of Polish History

apple pie & raspberry tort



ZAAM exhibition "1945. Not the End, Not the Beginning" tells the story of the post-war experience of Holocaust survivors. 40 ceramic heads - some have their mouths open in silent scream others have their eyes open but their mouths open.































miniature matzevah

After the Holocaust, the custom of making miniature matzevah died out. This miniature matzevah in the form of a closed book, is one of the last such objects to have been made. Matzevah is something like tombstone in Hebrew. 

We enjoyed the museum, and it was well done. Laid out nicely and in chronological order. 

Kris said to make sure we check out this statue after the museum as he would have questions about it the next morning 
Greg saying "get the photo already"

When we finished the museum, we discussed what we should do with the rest of our evening. We felt like the Old Town was the most interesting and we could easily find dinner there. We got an Uber and walked the Old Town at our pace retracing some of the same areas from earlier.

back at the Old Town





window display







 Gossciniec Polskie Pierogi for dinner (Greg in the 2nd table from the right) “OK” pierogis

Dumplings with meat
Dumplings with potato and white cheese (we split half and half)




back at the hotel - after finding gelato 
said goodbye to the rose that I couldn't take with me
magnet
magnet

In our opinion our hotel should have been located near here instead of where we were. We got an Uber back to the hotel to pack up for our train ride to Krakow tomorrow. It was also our opinion that the tour could have been finished in the 4-to-5-hour tour as scheduled instead of 7 without the verbose tour guide. 

Warsaw City https://photos.app.goo.gl/cSywggkjHqhFmLch9


No comments:

Post a Comment

Warsaw City Tour & Polin Museum of Polish History - Warsaw, Poland

Monday July 21  After the meager breakfast at the hotel, we met our guide Kris for our half-day tour of Warsaw. We started with a walking ...