Sunday, August 24, 2025

Final Thoughts & Updates

Saturday July 26

We checked out of the hotel. (we should have changed rooms here but didn’t) They put us in a handicapped room which had only a sink with no vanity. (nowhere to put anything down in there) The biggest issue was again the shower head. Since the entire bathroom was essentially the shower; water went everywhere. The shower head wouldn’t stay where it was useful, so Greg used some of the sticky sheets from the lint brush to tape it into place. Worked like a charm! The hotel was well located from Wawell Hill and the Main Market Square both within walking distance or a short Uber. 

When Wojtek picked us up on the first day, he said he’d be our driver except for the last day as it was his birthday, and his girlfriend had planned a surprise. However, he told us the day before that the timing of our flight didn’t interfere with his plans and he’d be there. Yay! He was just so helpful, and we were comfortable with him. We got home on Sunday and back to real life. UGH!

It was a great trip with little to complain about. My health however decided to make it interesting.... (don't read if you are squeamish) 

At first after a day or two into Paris, I thought I was just fighting a very minor cold, however, it became clear that it was probably a sinus infection. Clear liquid just pouring out of my nose while bending over or not and then sticky yellow gunk and some blood and I started blowing my nose like crazy. Lovely smell of yeast or wet diaper in my nose. Yum! (that last part didn’t develop until Poland towards the end of the trip)

The whole time we were in Paris it felt like I was walking with 2 broken big toes. (I attribute it to me forgetting to put in my regular orthotics and a new brand I was trying out was left in there) I also had tons of swelling in my legs (knees to feet) for a couple of weeks. (and I wear compression socks) I got several blisters and have lost at least one toenail. (I'm thinking the swelling had my shoes too tight) Same shoe and sock combo I wore in Asia with NO issues, but that darned new brand of insoles. (they are out now and the old brand in in preparation for the next trip)

The first week or more I was having “Prairie dogging” constantly, so there were many stops for bathrooms which aren’t always easy to find in Europe and almost never free. I contacted the PA at the gastro office to see if she could make me an appt for when we return. She did but then canceled it since she was sick and couldn’t reschedule me until Sept. Maybe the cyst or something else was causing this.

Yeah, in addition to all of the above, while in Switzerland I started growing a huge egg (cyst) in my peritoneal area. It got infected by the time we got to Poland, and it started to drain blood and yellow gunk. OUCH! No way to wipe either end comfortably. I got in the day after we got back and the GYN expressed it and prescribed antibiotics, and I had to do cyst baths twice a day for 10 days. All better now! I’m allergic to sulfa but the doc really wanted me to take Bactrim, and I said it’d been 40 years since I tried it and wasn’t sure if it was just upset stomach or something else and agreed to take it. Well, I learned it will stay on my “do not take” list as I developed a rash and itching. That took weeks to get over.

However, my sinus infection is still being treated. He vacuumed out a lot of gunk and prescribed a nasal lavage for twice a day containing antibiotic, antifungal and a steroid for 28 days.

A couple of weeks ago I felt like I should have gone to the ER. I was having tightness in my chest and shallow breathing with some rails (rattles) with deep breaths. Greg said if you aren't better tomorrow you need to go to the ER. Later that night, after I got worse, he said maybe we should go tonight. I said let me see how I do, and I'll go tomorrow if I'm not better. The next day I felt better but the day after I started coughing hard and couldn’t stop. Still tightness in my chest and hard to breathe. So, we took off for the ER.

I had a chair in the hall but everyone was so nice, and they were attentive. The lady that took my blood and started my IV called me “her travel bug). (since we travel so much) The guy who took my symptoms had to ask about any recent travels and he asked how we liked it. I told him I underestimated Switzerland as a country to visit and told him about the stunning scenery and he said, "you mean the hills really WERE alive with the sound of music?" That got him singing Do a deer a female deer and so on. He said now he'd be singing that all day. I apologized for planting the earworm. Anyway, they did a chest x-ray which prompted them to do a CAT scan with dye which found a couple of nodules in my lungs. (not unusual as about 30% of people find them and they are usually not an issue) They will have me repeat that in 3 to 6 months to make sure they aren't growing.

I was there about 4 hours and in the room across the hall just behind me a guy coded. His wife brought him in saying she thought he was just overheated doing yardwork and drove him in instead of calling for an ambulance. (they probably could have saved his life by starting treatment sooner) First I heard them say "Can you hear me" twice and then they yelled get the crash cart and called a Code Blue. There were at least 20 people in the room with him. I heard them say "welcome back" and then they were back doing compressions and shocking him. They worked on him for a long time but lost him. His wife was probably in shock and was taking it pretty well, but their daughter got there and was losing it. She was crying so hard she was dry heaving and kept leaving the room. Her boyfriend kept telling her she needed to be strong for her mother. They were still all in the room when I left hours later.

Anyway, back to my saga. I tested negative for all the viruses they test for, but I had some elevated bloodwork that suggested a clot breaking up in my lungs. In the end they chalked it up to a virus that just wasn't one they tested for. They sent me home with Tessalon Pearls to help with the cough and to follow up with my PCP. She agreed with me that it’s possible that my sinus drainage is causing it. I’m doing much better and almost “back to normal”.

Other than physical issues the trip was great. We had a mixed bag of weather from hot, cold, windy, sprinkles to torrential downpours. It was great to have so many days in Paris but one more would have been perfect. (mainly to see the things that the rain caused us to skip)

Viking river cruise was great, but we learned never to book that type of cabin again. No issue with the French Balcony but the small size was laughable. The people were really nice on this one (compared to a few on the one last year). We met one couple named Karen & Steve from California (we met a couple from CA with those names on the 2013 world cruise, so they were easy to remember). However, their personalities were like Rick & Janie another couple we met on the 2013 world cruise. So, nice table mates as well as the others that we sat with often. 

While not Viking's fault, the day before we were to go to the ship and go through the locks from Trier to Cochem, a ship ran into one of the doors to the lock and it was unusable. All traffic was at a halt until they could get it fixed. It honestly didn't affect us that much. We had 1.5 hours longer on the bus from Paris to go straight to Cochem where the ship was waiting for us. We bussed back to Trier for the Highlights tour the next day so we lost nothing except the short distance we would have done on the ship. (though people acted like it was the end of the world, including those on upcoming cruises that wanted to cancel). After the cruise we got an email saying they were giving us $250 (maybe PP?) credit to use on our next voyage. You’d think people couldn’t complain about that but of course people did. "What good is it if you never plan to sail Viking ever again due to the issue." Stuff happens at home or while traveling. We bought more onboard certificates as we definitely will sail Viking again.

I totally underestimated Switzerland as a country to visit. The Alps are stunning! Poland was interesting but no huge desire to go back. (of course I would) In hindsight, we said we should have booked our own hotels and could have used Viator for a small group tour for the two days we had tours. However, GFP made it “easy”.

This is the first trip that I didn’t bring my camera and instead used my new iPhone. It overall was a good experience. There was a learning curve of not nipping off the tops of things and getting the lighting adjusted but I think I got better at it and will be more prepared for the next trip. (now shooting in a different scale)

Speaking of which we leave in a bit over a month for a trip with the Krills for what we have dubbed “Epic Asia”. We’ll be gone 2 months and will start in Chengdu, China to see pandas and receive our Tibet Permits. We’ll spend time in Tibet including Base Camp at Mount Everest. From there we will visit Nepal which will include a tiger safari in Chitwan National Park. After that we will go to Bhutan where we will hike to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. After Bhutan we will spend about 3 weeks in Myanmar seeing Bagen Archeological Site and the Fishermen at Inle Lake and a few other towns. Then, we spend a week in Bangladesh which will include an overnight on a ferry and a few nights on a houseboat on a tiger safari in the Sundarbans. At the end of that trip the boat will take us to the border of India where we spend our last days in the Kolkata area. I have been planning that one for a couple of years now. I used 4 different tour companies and managed to get it all to flow together. Fingers crossed that it all works out as planned! As usual, I won’t blog on the trip and will update the blog upon our return.

'Til next time.....

Jasna Góra Monastery - Czestochowa, Poland

Friday July 25 

After breakfast (if I haven’t mentioned it yet, they had a great one here with lots of fresh fruit), Wojtek drove us around 2.5 hours to Czestochowa to visit the Jasna Góra Monastery.

The Monastery is a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary and one of the country's major places of pilgrimage. Every year since the Middle Ages, thousands of Poles go in pilgrim groups to visit Jasna Góra. In 2011, it was estimated that 3.2 million pilgrims from 80 countries around the world went to the shrine.

A little history if you are so inclined:

Saint Luke the Evangelist, according to tradition, is believed to be the original artist of this painting in which Mary is depicted holding the Christ Child. This sacred picture, enshrined and venerated at the renowned Marian Shrine in Poland, was first brought from Jerusalem through Constantinople and was bestowed to the Princess of Ruthenia. He invited the Monks of Saint Paul the First Hermit from Hungary to be its guardians.

Jasna Góra Monastery was founded in 1382 by Pauline monks who came from Hungary at the invitation of Vladislaus II of Opole. The new monastery was entrusted with the icon, depicting the Mother of God with the Christ Child, known as the Black Madonna of Częstochowa or Our Lady of Częstochowa. On April 14, 1430, Jasna Góra was sacked by the Hussites. It was originally a single-nave church, which was enlarged around 1463 to become a three-nave hall church in the Gothic style.

The scratches on the Czestochowa Black Madonna are two long gashes on the Virgin Mary's right cheek, said to have been inflicted by a Hussite invader in 1430 who tried to steal the icon. According to legend, the attacker struck the painting twice with his sword, and as he went for a third strike, he fell dead to the ground. Attempts to repair the slashes have failed, with the marks reappearing, and they are now seen as a symbol of suffering, redemption, and a reminder of the icon's history. There are other miner scratches but 2 are the most prominent. 

End of history lesson!

After the beautiful drive Wojtek brought us in to introduce us to our guide. I have forgotten her name, but she was a fun young lady that told great stories and brought the place to life. She knew everyone there and they seemed to adore her. She was a volunteer not one of the nuns.

She explained that due to demand, there are almost non-stop masses going on. 

She stopped at a sign and pointed out what we would be seeing. She said you will be moving past the altar, and your eyes will be drawn to the Black Madonna, and you won’t really see anything else in detail.


the sidewalk
photo of the altar since she said as you pass you will miss most of it

Votive Offerings at The Altar of Our Lady

1. Papal sash with the blood of Pope John ll after the assassination attempt in 1981

2. Royal regalia (septre and orb) offered to the Mother of God Queen of Poland by Polish Women

3. Golden rose, rosary and heart - offerings from Pope John ll

4. Votive offering from Pope Francis

5. Votive offering from Pole Benedict XVl

6. Relics of Blessed Cardinal Stefan Wyszynski

7. Act of Consecration of Poland into the Maternal Slavery of Mary, Mother of the Church 

After that we were taken to see the rest of the Basilica & Chapels.

We then proceeded inside the Basilica housing the Black Madonna and there was a long line of people waiting to approach the shrine, so we joined. Upon arriving at the place of the shrine at which one would pass in front of the icon of Our Lady, it is expected and a sign of respect for pilgrims to drop to their knees and traverse the anterior of the shrine on their knees. Of course, many are merely tourists and not expected to do that. 

Our guide was in front and then me and I turned around and noticed there was a large gap behind me. I could see Greg way back and then noticed there was a man going slowly around on his knees. (upright not on all fours) Greg said the guy was so eager he jumped ahead of him and dropped down. So, we waited for Greg to catch up with us, which gave me time for some photos. She was right that the time went so fast I hardly noticed anything else except the picture.












the altar with The Black Madonna





walking down the other side after walking behind the altar








Our guide then took us to see the rest of the altars and chapels before seeing the rest of the complex including the residence of the Father General.




























the nun was dusting
















Residence Hall (photos of all the Popes was impressive)

Pope Leon XIV






our guide - she was great!



note the scratches on the face





That's a LOT of Popes
 

Next, she took us to see the “closing of the Black Madonna”. She is unveiled twice a day. (around 6:00a, and around 1:00p) During this ceremony a "curtain" conceals her symbolizing the boundary between the mortal world and the divine. The ritualistic unveiling draws back this "curtain," inviting pilgrims to come into the presence of the miraculous image. Our guide joked that she needed her beauty sleep. It really was a powerful experience to witness. Music with trumpets and people dropping to their knees and praying. I shot a short video which is on the web albums.

the gate to the chapel is closed
the gate is down but picture isn't covered yet







she is now almost covered

Our last stop was at a small museum where our tour ended, we were able to walk around and see the monastery treasury and see the fortified walls, bastions, and gates. We popped back into the Chapel with the Black Madonna as I would have liked to have gone around it again, but she was still “closed”. 




painting depicting when Pope John Paul II survived an assassination attempt 


































The treasury (gifts donated to the Monastery)








Pope John Paul II Sunday gave the Jasna Gora monastery a sash pierced by a bullet that almost killed him as a sign of his thanks for surviving the shooting two years ago in St. Peter's Square.

 'You saved my life,' he said in a prayer to the Virgin Mary, patron of Poland and the focus of John Paul's special veneration.

















leaving the monastery

It was well past lunch time and Wojtek told us where to go for lunch. It was an order at the counter place and the lady said she didn’t speak English. We managed to order some pierogies and a couple of sodas. We went in search of gelato and were following Google Maps to a place when we came across people with these huge, dipped cones. We stopped where they were selling them, and they were so good! 

lunch


some kind of perogies 

ice cream (lody is their word for ice cream)
YUM!

We texted Wojtek that we were on our way back, and we made the drive back to Krakow. After another long day we decided to go back to the Italian place for pizza (and were hoping to get another of those chocolate orange aperitifs) The pizza was good but no after dinner drinks were brought. 

We walked back to the Main Market Square for the gelato place we liked (really good Dubai Chocolate) and enjoyed it while sitting on a bench and watching the people. We wandered the square taking some more photos before walking back towards the hotel. Since it was our last night, we continued on past the hotel to walk around the lake again.


walking in the park past the Chopin fountain (piano hammers)
back in the Main Market Square











We have a photo of me in inside one of these in Barcelona




we popped in just as they were locking up





church with a large mosaic Pope



back at the lake






park across the street from the hotel
magnet

Tomorrow morning, we fly home. I'll have one last post with my final thoughts on the trip.

Monastery https://photos.app.goo.gl/h5i7iXwgXQxyDGTB7


Final Thoughts & Updates

Saturday July 26 We checked out of the hotel. (we should have changed rooms here but didn’t) They put us in a handicapped room which had o...